When asked about alcohol consumption most Italians (or italophones, as they are referred to in Ticino) would hide a cheeky smile and admit to their liking of it, and not without a certain look of guilt “oh yes, but only when accompanied by good food…please don’t tell mum!”.
It’s common sense: “alcohol is bad for you only when consumed on an empty stomach.” Or at least, this is what any Italian would have been taught at home, in school and even in the playground. However, times change and modern life calls for adaptation. The working masses have lesser time to cook, dine and wine at home and young professional feel the need to socialize after work. Someone had to find a way of combining Italy’s centuries-old eating culture with the more metropolitan practice of “hanging out”.
The quest was not an easy one! For any right-minded mediterranean soul, 5 to 7pm it’s "way too early" to have dinner. Going home, dining and going out again would be equally impractical. Let’s face it, that sofa looks just too tempting.
Then, one day, a clever Turinese entrepreneur, a certain Antonio Benedetto Carpano, mixed his first Vermouth. Mr Carpano insisted that such fine drink would be best enjoyed accompanied by “stuzzichini” (Italian for nibbles), even better if “scrupulously selected among Piedmont best produce of cheese, hams, bread sticks, pickles…”
OK now, this has actually been going on since 1800. No excuse for busy-boozy metropolitan life back then, but just an alternative to “French café culture”. Some of Turin best known historical cafes’ and aperitif bars have been the intellectual hubs of independence wars, secret armistices and red revolutions.
Back to 21st century. Less romantically philosophical and realistically more modern is the concept of apericena (translates: dinner-aperitif). A very popular option for students, young professionals and businessmen alike, which combines a good drink with excellent complimentary food at the bar.
It was introduced in the north of Italy, quickly became very trendy and was immediately exported to the neighbouring-countries of France, Switzerland and Austria. However, most Italians would argue that an aperitivo is only a “good aperitivo” south of the Alps.
Lugano, as it stands, lays just about 90Km from the natural cultural frontier. It is a Milanese all-time favourite. The weekend destination par-excellence. Some say Ticino is Lombardy’s Swiss extension. Lucky Ticinese, get the best of both worlds!
If you happen to be passing by, Thursday aperocena is a must! Last week I went to Etnic Bar, in the central Quartiere Maghetti. I ordered my usual Aperol Spritz (also known as Veneziano, a well proportionate mix of Prosecco, Aperol and sparkling water on ice and orange) and helped myself to a selection of pasta bakes, pizzoccheri, meat balls in tomato sauce, stew and polenta, chicken nuggets, salads, hams, cheese, curried veggie, rice, bread…. Why? Because drinking without eating is a bad habit! I paid 12 francs for my drink and, as you might have guessed, didn’t need to cook dinner.
Apericena are mainly on Thursdays, although a small amount of bar food and snacks is available in many bars most nights (not on Sundays).
The best buffet so far was in the Quartiere Maghetti . Other good options are the Lido Restaurant, in viale Castagnola and Il Picchio, a smallish bar in via Ferruccio Pelli, just off Corso Pestalozzi.
Remember, food is always free and plenty, but drinks can be pricey, especially on Thursday.
